Both salons and clients have dubbed new eyelash extension services “addictive,” and now, take-home alternatives are taking off, too. This month’s In Depth report investigates the growth opportunities and potential pitfalls in the eyelash market.
Co-Owner with Katrina Gardner of Vita Bella Fine Day Spa Glendale, Arizona
Dr. Johnyee Beasley, a chiropractor and extension specialist, brought along her formidable clientele when she and Katrina Gardner opened Vita Bella Fine Day Spa in October, 2007. Here, she dishes on the ins and outs:
ST: How did you hear of eyelash extensions and how did you research them? JB: I first heard about them from a client. I started researching on the internet, reading everything I could find. Next, I called companies directly to ask specific questions.
ST: What are the most important factors in selecting a lash company? JB: It's imperative to choose a company that requires education and certification. Without this, you'll never perfect your technique, keep your clients safe and build a successful business. A customer service department that truly cares is also important.
ST: What do you charge and how's business? JB: My price for a full set of lashes is $350-$450, depending on the number of lashes applied and if the client wants crystals or multiple colors. A full set takes approximately 1½ to 2 hours to complete; fills cost $80 per half-hour. I'm booked solid throughout the week. Typically, I see six or more clients a day for fills, which I book as standing appointments every two or three weeks. Sometimes I am so busy with fills it's difficult to find a large enough block of time to take a new client for a full set.
ST: You educate nationally for Xtreme Lash; what are a few important precautions and techniques? JB: Do not attempt applying eyelash extensions without the proper training and certification. Being a lash specialist is safe, fun and lucrative only if you know what you're doing. When you get the proper education, every safety precaution will be taught to you in depth, not to mention how to replicate the natural lashes to create something truly beautiful.
ST: What are clients' and other salon owners' biggest questions? JB: The first questions clients ask is how long it takes and how much it costs. Next, they ask how long they last. Professionals typically ask how much education is required and how much money can really be earned.
fast facts about eyelash extensions and conditioning products
WHAT THEY ARE: Extensions are individual lashes in different sizes,
weights and lengths, applied to the natural lashes and adhered in place
with a medical-grade adhesive, which sticks to the lash, not the
eyelid. As lashes shed, fills are done every 3-4 weeks. Lash
conditioners are take-home products, applied like eyeliner or
occasionally mascara, to condition the lashes and encourage their
health.
WHAT YOU CAN CHARGE: $250 to $450 for the initial lash extensions, with
fills ranging from $40 to $100. Take-home products range from a
conditioning mascara retailing for $18.50 to a lash conditioner applied
like eyeliner for $160 retail.
TIME IT TAKES: 1½ to 2½ hours for the initial lash application; 30-45 minutes for fills.
PERMANENT OR NOT: The extensions are intended to be permanent, until
the lash falls out. Some salons offer semi-permanent or "vacation"
lashes that last three to four days, using either weaker adhesives, or
cluster/"strip" lashes, which represent a different market.
HOW LONG IT LASTS: It depends. Every two weeks, a client sheds about 25
percent of her lashes. In about 8 weeks, all the extensions will be
gone, unless she gets fills.
DO: Take a hands-on class and practice on the staff for a few months
before charging clients. Test lash conditioners for 2 months; that's
about how long it takes to see strong results.
DON'T: Let client touch extensions for at least 24-hours after application, get them wet or use oily/creamy make-up removers.
KNOW THAT: Very low levels of formaldehyde can form in the air when
cyanoacrylate adhesives are exposed to it. Test and research them
thoroughly; buy from reputable companies. Additionally, technicians
universally report it's a physically demanding specialty service.
ALWAYS: Give clients after-care instructions.
INSIST: On hands-on training and certification testing. The money is in the time and expertise.
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Most salon owners have no idea what these numbers are.
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At Janet St. Paul Studio for Hair and Beauty, Director of Operations Natasha McMillen helps bring her wife Janet St. Paul's vision to life, elevating every system from education to operations.
