HOW TO Create Soft Concave Layers by Angelo Pacente
Angelo Pacente, an Artistic Director at the Panico Salon in Ridegewood, NJ, is known for his beautifully layered cuts. We stopped by and asked him to demonstrate his signature look on a fellow Panico artist.
"This can be done on wet or dry hair," he says. But in the interest of time, Angelo pre-dried the hair. "This is a great way to create gentle concave layers with a slight disconnection at the bottom. This is a classic Sassoon technique that allows softness without losing length."
Angelo uses clean diagonal sections with lots of overdirection and points out that the higher he elevates the elbow, the more movement is created.
"This is a universally popular cut," he says. "It is a technique that every hairdresser should know."
It turns out that the color is as exciting as the cut. Since posting this, we've received several calls about the color. Angelo shares his formula:
"This color was formulated from the 2012 Fall & Winter Wella Collection and was done by Wella Design Team member Liz Wright," says Angelo. "My model Anna represents 'Celeste' Blonde with pastel tones of blues, violets and grey."
To get there, Liz used all Wella products. Model Anna was first prelightened with Soft Blonde Cream and 4.0% starting from the crown and working to the nape. The developer was increased to 20 volume from the crown forward. This was processed visually until a pale yellow tone was achieved. She was then shampooed and neutralized with Color Post Treatment. After rinsing and towel drying, she was toned with Color Touch, equal parts 10/81 and 8/81 with 4.0%. This was processed visually until all remaining underlying pigment was cancelled out. This was then rinsed out and towel dried.
The following three formulas were applied in an Onbre fashion, alternating randomly to create colors the melt together:
a) one part 12/11 plus 4 parts pastel developer (soft grey)
b) one part 12/61 plus 4 parts pastel developer (soft lavendar)
c) one gram 0/88 Koleston Perfect Special Mix with 40 grams Pastel developer (soft steel blue)
Process for 20 minutes, rinse and finish with Color Post Treatment.