Grow Your Talent
Hire for attitude, train for skill. Itâs been preached throughout the industry for years, but developing a training program that consistently turns out and retains great stylists and colorists is easier said than done.
âOur apprentice program is the single most important aspect of building our salon,â says Jeff Hankins, who with wife Hope co-owns Reaction Salon in Omaha, Nebraska. âItâs the perfect system for breeding, strengthening and reinforcing our salon culture and everything we believe in. Itâs an intense experience thatâs not for everyone, but when an apprentice completes the program, she truly is ready to be a member of our professional team, perform at a high level, and provide clients with an amazing hair experience.â
For many salons, structuring a training program is an overwhelming, expensive and seemingly unnecessary step. Instead, they tend to hire experienced stylists who bring talent as well as their clients with them. From their first day, they are ready to step up to that chair and begin generating money.
Other owners believe that seasoned stylists also tend to bring unbreakable habits and years of attitude. They are less likely to adapt to a different culture, and more likely to try and force their own opinions on others. Sometimes, these stylists cause unrest until they move on to their next experience, taking salon clients and even other staff members with them.
Peter Thomas, who owns Peter Thomas Hair Design in Berkeley, California, with Deborah Simons, has had a training program in place since his opening in 1978.
âWe hire the majority of our students straight out of cosmetology school,â he says. âI canât remember the last time we swapped out stylists with another salonâitâs just proven to be a catastrophic mistake.â
Even with a training program in place, Kevin Kravklis, who with wife Tiffany Kravklis and Jim Pacifico owns Aveda Academy Denver and the Pure Talent Salon in Denver, discovered several years ago that his salonâs needs were outgrowing his ability to produce new stylists. âI ended up having to hire experienced people,â he remembers. âBut they end up bringing in their own opinions, which changes your culture, and eventually they leave and take your client inventory. Itâs a vicious cycle.â
For other owners, a training program becomes a necessity because the environment limits hiring opportunities. With a clear vision, mission statement, and brand, the Reaction owners wanted to have a world-class salon in everything they did.
âIn a city like Omaha, you just donât have truly great stylists in the community, so hiring experienced stylists was never really an option,â says Hope. âWe knew that in order to build a world-class hair team, weâd have to build superstars from scratch, and thatâs what weâve done through our apprentice program.â
âAlong with growing your business, your training program also ensures that there is a consistency from stylist to stylist,â adds Nancy Cartonio, who owns Bei Capelli Salon and Retail Shop in Scarborough, Maine with partners Tiffany Conway and Melissa Vique. âOur clients are referring our salon, telling their friends that everyone there is greatâthey can do that because our staff have all had the same education and weâve developed a strong reputation with a level of consistency.â
Once an owner decides to implement a training program, the first important question is, âWho is going to do the training?â
JÃ³n Snetman, who co-owns JÃ³n Alan Salons in Nashville, Tennessee, with her husband Alan, originally designed a training program that paired apprentices with experienced stylists in a learn-at-the-chair kind of program. >
âIn the beginning, we operated on an âeach one, teach oneâ mentality, but we quickly found that some stylists were better at educating than others. And, sometimes weâd have stylists whoâd treat the apprentices like their personal slaves.â
When the Snetmans recently refocused their business operations, they seized the opportunity to reinvent their education program as well. âWe subscribe to Toni&Guyâs comprehensive cutting system, and identified two staff members who were excited about education and passionate about becoming trainers.â
Snetman sent the stylists through the training program in Denver, and initially covered the $2,500 apiece in tuition, plus airfare and hotel costs. But she also instituted a program by which the newly educated trainers would partially reimburse her. âOur agreement is they will pay back half their tuition by receiving $100 credit for each class they teach. If they end up leaving the salon in the year after their training, then they will pay back 70 percent of the tuition,â says Snetman. âThey eagerly agreed, and now two more stylists have emerged with an interest in becoming educatorsâI can see my artistic and educational team developing.â
For most salons though, education frequently becomes the ownerâs responsibility. At Bei Capelli, the owners divide classroom instruction among the three of them based on their own individual talents. For example, one is a national color educator for Goldwell, so sheâll tend to take the color classes. âAt the beginning of each training group, weâll sit down with the calendar and divide up the classes,â says Conway.
When Tom Rough and Dino Coppi opened Taglio Salon in Phoenix, they made quality their most important goal. âWe are both ex-Sassoon guys and we tell our staff that itâs not 50 percent work quality and 50 percent customer serviceâyou have to give 100 percent to work quality and 100 percent to customer service.â
Rough says a year ago they added an art director whoâs made an impact on the training program. âOver time, the quality of education got stronger, our models have gotten better and the art director brought more organization to the program.â
While Hope Hankins serves as one of Reactionâs instructors and Jeff Hankins educates apprentices on business topics, their senior stylists also are involved.
âWhen we first opened, we had a very strong group of key senior stylistsârock stars from the industry in terms of technical talent and revenue production,â says Hope. âIn basic terms, our focus is using the strengths and experience of our senior designers to develop young talent, to accelerate their learning curve, and to transform them into amazing hair designers in a relatively condensed period of time.â
The stylists are compensated for their instruction through the use of the apprentices to increase their own productivity. âOur senior designers are producing an average of $4,000 a week, which are big numbers in Omaha,â says Jeff. âOur apprentices are working with very busy stylists, so everything they learn is under the pressure of timeâthey are never cleaning or folding towels.â
Peter Thomas compensates his instructors for their classroom time at a rate based on what they would have received if serving clients. âWeâve found thatâs helpful, because then they have no sense of loss for lost work time. They also get the most privileges when it comes to advanced education, because we know they will be passing that knowledge on.â
At Aveda Academy Denver and Pure Talent Salon, Kevin Kravklis teaches cutting classes and Tiffany teaches color. Another educator is paid on salary, while other stylists who teach periodic classes are paid an hourly rate based on their income from behind the chair.
One Step Back
One of the most important keys to developing a successful training program starts before the educator teaches the first class. It actually begins with the selection of the candidates.
In the almost four years since Reaction Salon implemented its training program, it has changed its selection process. âWhen we first opened, our goal was to hire the best coming cosmetology school graduates as far as technical skill,â says Jeff. But that strategy didnât prove too fruitfulâonly one out of every three trainees was making it through the program.
âNow weâve evolved to the point that technical skills are the least of our concerns. Weâve gotten good at interviewing, using a list of about 20 questions that dig into personality characteristics. Now, weâre looking first for attitude; second, for passion for the craft of hairdressing; and third, for people who are craving education and want to be rock stars in the industry,â he continues. âBy selecting according to attitude, weâre now closer to having three out of four complete the program.â
Reaction even dropped the traditional technical part of the interview where the applicant brings and styles a model. âIt just didnât matter,â says Jeff. âUsually we go through two or three interviews, and invite them to hang out and see the salon in action so they can help determine if they are choosing the right salon.â
Thomas combines a rigorous interviewing process with a month-long mutual check-out period to ensure his new hires fit the Peter Thomas culture. âTwo salon managers conduct the first interview with prospects, running through a whole list of questions and through a list of detailed job responsibilities that in some way is designed to scare them off,â he says. About half the applicants make it through to a second interview with Thomas.
Thomas then invites the ones heâs most interested in to a working interview where candidates come into work in the salon on busy days from two weeks to a month. Candidates are paid an hourly wage for their time. During that phase, Thomas and his staff are observing the candidates for their ability to be team players, to be open to learning, to be courteous and customer-service focused. Candidates are asked to help with opening and closing the salon; shampoo clients; answer phones and make appointments; price products and stock shelves; sweep, mop and take out trash; and even fill parking meters for clients.
âItâs an encouraging and supportive environment and weâre always welcoming questions,â says Thomas. âBut, we also are meeting with staff members and discussing their observations. Itâs a time that we can observe candidates, and they can give us a look as well.â
To ensure that the JÃ³n Alan Salon is the right fit for her candidates, Snetman encourages them to look elsewhere. âItâs all about finding the right match, the right chemistry. I even print out a list of other salons in the area and encourage them to visit them all. I donât want them to get involved in our training program, then drop out because they just discovered another salon thatâs a better fit.â
And, Snetman stresses that you should always check references. âI once had a candidate list Van Council (of Van Michael Salons) as a reference. So I called him and heâd never heard of her.â
By cultivating a strong relationship with local schools, Vique, Conway and Cartonio strengthen their hiring process.
âWe are members of the different advisory boards and have become one of the areaâs most sought-after employers,â says Conway. âWe frequently have up to 20 applicants for two spots, and weâll use the schools as a reference point. How well a student performed in school is a good indicator of how sheâll perform in the salon.â
Curriculum Case Studies
Since a training program is a salonâs best chance of taking students fresh from school and shaping them to meet the salonâs needs, each program is a unique reflection on the salon. The best way to analyze these is to compare and contrast:
Follow the Leader
Bei Capelli maintains a 16-week training program, which starts with retail and blowout/finishing lessons. Following a written training manual that the owners say is a compilation of their 16 years of training and experience, the trainees learn cutting, coloring and updo techniques as well as doing in-depth role-playing on product knowledge/retail recommendations and consultation. Classes are held all day on Mondays, and apprentices assist the salonâs busy stylists during the week, putting lessons into action. Practical and written exams throughout the program test traineesâ knowledge, and as they pass each section they can begin implementing those skills on the floor.
Throughout the program, each trainee is paired with one of the owners, who serve as mentors. âWe meet with each one for 15 minutes each day and go over any issues and share feedback from clients and other stylists, and as they progress weâll begin to look at retention and request rates. We closely monitor their success through the program,â says Cartonio.
Because Taglio Salon is departmentalized, apprentices most frequently choose either the cutting or coloring curriculum, although one recent apprentice chose to learn both. Classes are held on Monday evenings from 4 to 9 p.m., and apprentices begin on basic theory cutting or coloring, diagramming their ideas and working on mannequins. After the first several weeks, apprentices start to work on models. Out of class, apprentices help stylists or colorists by greeting clients, performing scalp massages, and serving coffee and tea. After about the third week of class, they begin doing blowouts or applying color in supervised situations. Classes on retailing, prebooking and consultation are reinforced through expectations on the floor.
âOnce they have a strong foundation, they begin to do creative work. While the program can take up to 18 months, if someone shows progress we do move them forward based on their overall performance,â says Rough.
Once applicants complete the check-out period at Peter Thomas, they begin a 12-month training program. The salon is closed on Mondays to clients, maintaining the day for education. Techniques are taught using live models, and Thomas estimates that the curriculum emphasis is about 65-percent cutting, 25-percent color and 10-percent chemical services and hairdressing skills. Once apprentices master a skill, they are able to perform it supervised on the floor on their own models. At the end of each class, there is an evaluation form filled out by the teachers, including the hair cut, punctuality, attitude, tools used, control level, etc.
During the rest of the week, apprentices will be assigned each day to personally assist the salonâs busiest stylists and one will serve as a general floater. Along with shampooing, blow drying and conditioning clients, apprentices are responsible for observing which products a stylist introduces to a client and recording it on a clientâs written prescription. âThat develops a strong sense of retail, which we further encourage by including assistants in the bonuses when the salon hits certain team goals. That can mean an extra $50 in their paycheck.â
At JÃ³n Snetman, training begins with orientation, followed by learning client handling, salon rituals, retailing principles, shampooing procedures and color application and removal. âThose are the things theyâll be performing in the salon through the first 90 days.â
The salonâs recently restructured program then takes apprentices through a series of 15 cutting and coloring techniques, including segment tests that evaluate not only technical skill but handling. Once students test out at different levels, they are able to perform those skills on the floor. âTypically, the first thing they master is waxing, and theyâll do several services. I even allow them to book request clients.â
Classes are held on Mondays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. for stylists at three different levels. Level One trainees will earn their chair in six to nine months depending on individual skill. Level Two, which meets two Mondays a month, and Level Three, which meets one Monday a month, include two different levels of experienced stylists who continue that time to work on advanced education. When Snetman initiated the new program she requested that all her staff go through Level One education. âThereâs always an opportunity to improve or enhance their skills. Plus if they all know the new system that we are teaching, they can be called upon to help the young people.â
At Reaction, the apprentice program generally runs over a one-year program, but can last from eight to 18 months depending on individual progress. The program is centered around several key personality attributes: passion for the craft, positive attitude, respect for the profession, work ethic integrity, and loyalty. These values are measured in terms of sharing salon values, goals and commitment to education.
On the technical side, an apprentice is partnered with one of the salonâs senior designers. The apprentice spends the first half of the program mastering color technique, including vision, formulation and application. They also learn how to conduct professional consultations, and they begin learning chair education. During the second half, apprentices continue color education, but begin technical training in the areas of cutting, finishing and product usage. This time includes a tremendous amount of work with the salonâs creative director, including one-on-one sessions, small group classes and work with models. Cutting starts with short cuts and bobs, moving through medium and long layers. Throughout the process, there is an intense focus on finishing skill, product knowledge, command, poise, communication and chair education.
After running a more traditional training program for 17 years, Kravklis felt he could no longer train apprentices fast enough to handle his salonâs growing business. In 2004, he reinvented his training program. He decided on an accelerated eight-month program and instituted a training salon that gave apprentices real-life experiences.
The first eight weeks of the program are known as the awareness phase, when the student does a lot of observation. They also learn the salonâs 12 points of difference, that includes things such as how to consult with a look book, give a stress-relieving treatment, show clients how to finish a style, create additional sales, etc. Classes are held early on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and add up to about seven hours a week of classtime. Students in the first phase also learn cutting techniques, including the graduated bob, higher vertical graduation, and square layers, and start color work and finishing.
The next phase of the program is known as the progressive phase. Students test out of different hair cuts and begin providing services to the clients of the Pure Talent Salon for reduced fees. About four weeks later, theyâll begin to offer color services. As an apprentice grows, so does his or her hourly wage. During the final six weeks, Kravklis pushes progressive work, teaching students the looks from Avedaâs current collection.
Kravklis likens his program to a masterâs program, telling new hires theyâll receive two years worth of information in eight months. What he doesnât promise them is a job within his salon at the endâbut he does help them find jobs. Of the 93 students to enter the program, 18 are currently enrolled, 30 didnât finish, 30 graduates were placed with other salons in the Aveda network and 15 finished and accepted jobs with Kravklis.